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Subject: Diary of Elisabeth Koren - 60-67
Date: Mon, 4 Aug 2003 10:32:47 -0700
Acknowledgment
The following selection is taken from "The Diary of Elisabeth Koren"
translated and edited by David T. Nelson and published by the
Norwegian-American Historical Association (NAHA) in 1955. The Volume is
still in print and available from NAHA at http://www.naha.stolaf.edu
where you will also find the first 33 volumes of Studies and Records
online as well as Theodore C. Blegen's 2 volumes on Norwegian Migration
to America. This chapter is published with the kind permission of NAHA.
The book this selection is drawn from is under copyright and permission
has been granted for educational purposes and it is not to be used in any
way for commercial purposes.
5 New York and the Journey to Koshkonong
Monday, November 21. This has been the most disagreeable day of the
voyage. It rained all day. The captain went ashore, leaving orders for us
to remain aboard until further notice; but the steerage folk were taken
ashore on a tug. The customs officers came aboard and looked through our
luggage; they were very civil. V. went out in his rain cape. Wohlenberg,
Kihn's brother, came to the ship to talk to her. Madam Zeplin walked
about, wondering why her husband did not come. We stood in the captain's
cabin and passed the time gazing down on the deck, where there was a
throng of people so clean and well dressed that we did not recognize
them.
We had gotten our trunk up from the hold and had begun to pack our
things, when we were interrupted by an order from an official who was
aboard to hurry ashore right away, every last one of us, as the ship was
to be fumigated. Everyone was sure there must be a misunderstanding and
began to make objections. Kihn cried; Küsler thought it best to go just
the same. I let them prattle and simply hurried with my packing. The
steward set the table and kept saying, "Wollen Sie nicht so gut sein and
Platz nehmen, sonst kriegen Sie nichts." {1} We followed his good advice
and had finished our broth when an order came from the mate, who of
course was in command, that we had to leave. Then there was confusion. V.
comforted Kihn and Zeplin and promised to look after them.
While the confusion was at its height, a counterorder came to the effect
that we could remain; the tugs would wait no longer. We were very happy
to be able to turn to the fresh beef, which we had looked forward to for
so long; it tasted delicious, even though the potatoes were cold. Miss
Kihn dried her tears and joined the other women in praise of V.'s
goodness; I was quite proud of my husband. We spent a pleasant evening
after that, for the captain came aboard with the information that the
ship was first to be fumigated, then would dock in New York the following
day. I shall not forget poor Madam Zeplin's disappointment when she heard
that the captain had spoken with her husband and that he was well, but
still had not come aboard.
Tuesday, November 22. The father of the children has come aboard. It was
a pleasure and joy to see his meeting with them and his happiness at
being with them. Little Anna gave many a questioning look before she
dared to remain with him, but now she walks very contentedly up and down
the deck in her cloth coat. The fumigators have been aboard and refreshed
our organs of smell; now we are under way to the great city, New York.
The fog is disgusting; it keeps us from seeing things. It is too bad for
Zeplin that her husband never comes; he must be a strange creature. I
have been on deck to see what I could see, and have marveled at the
forest of masts in all directions, and all the steamships with one deck
above another. V. is in raptures over all these beautiful ships.
We are now lying at the wharf. Miss Kihn's brother is here. That is kind
of him. While we were sitting at the table Mr. Zeplin came at last; but
what an unpleasant impression his cold greeting and his whole being made
upon me! "Have you brought the collars and clothes for me?" was his first
question. She trembles when she speaks to him. The first man to come
aboard was a Norwegian, Arnesen, a sailmaker, who is a good friend of the
captain. {2}It was fun to hear him; he speaks genuine Christiania
Norwegian, even though he has been away from home so long.
We have been ashore with the captain. First we went up Broadway and into
Taylor's Restaurant. {3} How splendid it is! It is extremely large, with
a balcony over half of it. The other half is an open floor. Above are two
hundred gaslights, some chandeliers, some glass candelabra; below, sixty
or eighty lights. The floor is set with tables, and along the walls at
each table are lovely semicircular sofas covered with crimson velvet. In
the center is a large fountain, partly of marble, partly of glass, in
which goldfish are swimming. We had a hot meal and ices, marveling at the
more than ample American servings. We then proceeded to the celebrated
Barnum's Museum. {4} The most remarkable things we saw there were two
giraffes, fifteen feet high, and a woman with a great beard on her face.
She sat on a platform, decked out for exhibition like a strange animal,
with bare neck and arms and a diadem on her head. Her little husband sat
with both feet in a window recess, reading a paper. There was much to
see, good and bad, all mixed together.
We also went to a theater and saw "Uncle Tom's Cabin," which was
frightfully distorted of course; but it was quite amusing to see
something of that sort and to observe the Americans' taste. {5} When Eva,
an affected little girl, fell into the water, or someone was killed, they
laughed and clapped as loud as they could. Naturally they had taken care
to make Topsy as preposterous as possible, without allowing her to
improve later. One pretty thing, however, was the scenery. One saw the
varied landscape along the Mississippi. Some of that, like the sunset and
dawn, was really beautiful. The theater itself was attractive, too.
Wednesday, November 23. Today Schlytter was on board and brought us a
letter from Sellø. It was naturally very pleasant to talk with a person
from Larvik again. Hvoslef, the merchant, came, too, and invited us for
tomorrow. Schlytter came on board after we had eaten, and he went ashore
with V. All day the ship was full of people, businessmen and friends. All
the passengers left except the doctor and his wife. {6}
There was an unpleasant episode this evening. Just after V. had left, the
doctor's wife came aboard anxious and distressed. She had taken a little
walk near the ship with her husband, who is greatly disheartened at his
prospects since his arrival here and was strangely upset this forenoon.
While they were thus walking together, he suddenly tore himself away from
her and vanished. Oh, how worried we were as to what he might do in that
condition! The steward went ashore to see what he could do. When V. came,
he and the mate took a lantern and looked for him on the wharf, but in
vain. Time passed; the steward returned intoxicated and came to blows
with the mate and the maids. The doctor's wife, poor creature, was very
composed and quiet; at last she went to bed. The captain, too, returned.
The mate arranged to sleep in the saloon, and we also went to bed.
Thursday, November 24. God be praised, the doctor has come back. He came
this morning and told a story of having traveled for fourteen hours, back
and forth, between Brooklyn and New York. Now, in spite of all our
precautions, he has gone ashore again. The mate was supposed to look
after him, but lost him. The captain intended to go ashore; we were to go
to Hvoslef's. He and Schlytter came and called for us. But that poor wife
could not be left alone. After some discussion we decided the men would
go aboard again after we had eaten.
It was pleasant to get away from the cold ship to a comfortable, nicely
furnished room with a fine big fireplace full of glowing coals, and to be
received cordially by a sweet little matron with a young child on her arm
and another holding on to her dress. It was a very pleasant day. The men
left and were gone a long time, but we entertained ourselves as best we
could. They accompanied us to the ship, where we are still staying.
Friday, November 25. The day was really to have been used for writing
home; but there have been many interruptions. The doctor is fairly well.
He has been bled and his wife has gone ashore with him. V. is ashore with
Schlytter, who this evening takes us to Captain Mølbach, and tomorrow we
move ashore.
Saturday, November 26. We had a cozy evening yesterday; it was so good to
be able to speak Norwegian once more. Today we were up early to get our
chests sent off, and have now moved ashore to lodge with that Danish
family, where we are living in a fairly large room --- not handsome,
however --- taking our meals with the family.{7} While V. was aboard
getting our things, Schlytter, that splendid person, who is a great help
and comfort to us, talked to me about everything, old or new. V. called
for me later, when we went with the Hvoslefs to see the Crystal Palace.
{8} We drove there in an omnibus, were delayed incessantly on crowded
Broadway, and as a consequence found time to observe a number of elegant
carriages with their lordly occupants.
It is really interesting to have been there. The building is pleasing
from outside and magnificent within. I had expected to find more glass in
the roof. Among the things that made the deepest impression on me was a
group by Thorwaldsen, a figure of Christ and a baptismal font, very
charmingly arranged in a semicircle, with draperies of purple velvet in
the background, and a wreath of evergreen above each figure. {9} That
spot had something solemn and awe-inspiring about it. There were many
other marble figures, too, but I did not care for most of them. Among the
loveliest and most gorgeous exhibits was the silverwork from England. The
watches from Geneva were remarkably fine, one pair not larger than a
Norwegian two-shilling piece. A large number of pretty pieces of wood
carving from Switzerland. The French porcelain and the Beauvais
tapestries, which looked just like beautiful paintings, were lovely.
Gorgeous Brussels rugs, silhouettes from fine daguerreotypes, pieces of
furniture, carriages, some matchless fireplaces of marble and carved wood
--- well, I do not know what could have been missing. One could spend
many days instead of our five hours. With all the countless gaslights
burning, it looked splendid, especially when one had a clear view from
above.
I was quite depressed at seeing the Norwegian and Swedish section, it was
so poor. A few carved bowls and spoons, a few hideous crocheted pieces,
and insignificant trifles made up the greater part of it. Then there were
a Wergeland poster and some iron articles. From Sweden several
beautifully bound books --- Tegner, Charles XII, and others. A colossal
Amazon in bronze, a magnificent piece of work (German), was undoubtedly
one of the best things. It was happily placed. In the center of the
building stands a huge bronzed plaster of Paris statue of Washington on
horseback. Near by are two beautiful marble candelabra, very large.
Everywhere were many knickknacks. A whole street, Greenwich Street (where
we are living for the present), with emigrants who have just landed, was
very well worked out in sugar. Perfumes in abundance. There is a large
collection of paintings, among them a couple by Gude. {10}
We grew very tired looking at all this and went into one of the many
restaurants, where we refreshed ourselves with tea and bread. Thereupon
we continued our wanderings until eight o'clock. Then we entered one of
those very large cars which are drawn on rails and are very comfortable;
they run smoothly and are said not to jump the track. We went into
Taylor's, had a hot dinner and ices, and then took leave of each other,
well content with that afternoon. The Crystal Palace was impressive from
the outside when it was lit up. It was interesting as we drove along to
see all the different large, well-lighted shops of every kind. When we
reached home, we found a letter from Consul Bech inviting us to visit
him. {11}
Sunday, November 27. We have good weather again today, fairly cold. This
morning I went down to breakfast. We eat in the basement. That seemed
quite odd and was new to me. There is a large square room with a vault of
brickwork in one wall, in which there is a cookstove. The rest of the
wall is taken up by a large table for washing; there is also an ordinary
stove, a rocking chair, and a nice sofa. In one corner was the breakfast
table, very neatly and nicely set, and from the ceiling hung a pipe with
two gas jets, which were lit, since it does not get light very early in
this nether world. In this cross between a kitchen and a living room the
family is usually found; they live in cramped quarters, as do most people
here. On the wall hang great bundles of onions and of dried lemon peel.
The lady of the house is a friendly woman, typically Danish, although she
has been here so long. The room where we live is the assembly room for
the Scandinavian Society; there is a piano, some music, and a large
bookcase with good books on several subjects. {12}
Monday, November 28. We ate dinner downstairs by gaslight yesterday, but
did not find it particularly pleasant, since the other lodgers also eat
there on Sunday. However, they appear to be quiet, unassuming persons
(Danish). Preus was here for coffee. We sat and chatted until Schlytter
and Hvoslef came to take us home with them. We had another pleasant
evening and find both husband and wife more and more attractive. The time
passed quickly in lively conversation. The men drank toddy, we ate cakes
and drank lemonade, and before we realized it, it was eleven o'clock.
Schlytter saw us home; and now I hear him coming for V.
Tuesday, November 29. V. and Schlytter took me to Mølbach's yesterday,
where I was to stay while they ran their errands. We sat quite cozily
working and talking, but were interrupted for a time by two tailors who
were arguing loudly about fashions. At last, to our relief, they left.
Some time later V. came to ask in Schlytter's behalf how I was getting
on. We sent him on his way with the message that I did not intend to come
home for dinner; thereupon Mrs. M. and I sat down to our noonday meal. We
sat some time over coffee and afterwards were planning to go up Broadway
to see the crowds in the city, when word came that a German captain's
wife was coming to call. That was a disappointment, but there was nothing
to do about it; and we had to do our best to keep a conversation going in
German until Mølbach and V. came and helped us. Mrs. M. played, and the
evening passed very agreeably, even though I was tired.
<1> "Please take your places; otherwise you will get nothing."
<2> The New York City Directory for 1853-54 lists a Frederick E. Arnesen,
sailmaker, at 80 West Street.
<3> There was a Taylor Hotel at 28 Cortlandt Street, according to the New
York City Directory.
<4> The Phineas T. Barnum museum was located at the corner of Broadway
and Ann street, about four blocks from the Taylor Hotel.
<5> Harriet Beecher Stowe's Uncle Tom's Cabin, or Life among the Lowly
was published in Boston in 1852.
<6> Schlytter and Hvoslef were friends of the Korens who lived in New
York. Sellø (Selje) is a parsonage in Nordfjord about thirty-five miles
north of Bergen, Norway. The Reverend Wilhelm Frimann Koren (1801-91), an
uncle of Vilhelm Koren, was pastor there; Johnson, Slekten Koren, 1:64.
Pastor Koren's mother stayed at Sellø with Wilhelm Koren for a time.
<7> Mrs. Koren mentions, post, p. 68, that the name of their hostess was
Madam Scot; apparently she was Mrs. Frederick Schott. The New York City
Directory for 1852 lists a "Frederick Schott, hotel," at go Greenwich
street.
<8> The Crystal Palace was so named because of the large amount of glass
used in its construction. It was erected in 1853 on Sixth Avenue between
Fortieth and Forty-second streets, and was destroyed by fire in 1858.
<9> The sculptor was Albert Bartholomew (Bertel) Thorwaldsen (1770-1844).
A replica of Thorwaldsen's Christ was placed above the altar of the
Washington Prairie Church and adorns it to this day.
<10> Henrik Arnold Wergeland (1808-45) was a Norwegian lyric poet and
dramatist, and Esaias Tegner (1782-1846), a Swedish poet. Charles XII
(16821718), hero-king of Sweden, reigned 1697-1718. Hans Fredrik Gude
(1825-1903) was a Norwegian landscape painter.
<11> Edward Bech, Danish consul in Poughkeepsie, New York, was the owner
of iron works that were located on the river front there; information
supplied by Mrs. Amy Ver Nooy, of the Adriance Memorial Library in
Poughkeepsie, from the local city directories of the 1850's. Consul Bech
entertained the Korens at his home the weekend of December 2, 1853.
<12> Det Skandinaviske Selskab was organized July 9, 1844, at the home of
Christian Hansen, 117 Washington Street, New York, and was composed of
Norwegians, Swedes, and Danes. It went out of existence about 1910. See
A. N. Rygg, Norwegians in New York 1825-1925 (Brooklyn, n.d.); Theodore
C. Blegen, Norwegian Migration to America: The American Transition, 287
(Northfield, 1940).
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