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Subject: Diary of Elisabeth Koren - 68-75
Date: Tue, 5 Aug 2003 08:51:50 -0700
Acknowledgment
The following selection is taken from "The Diary of Elisabeth Koren"
translated and edited by David T. Nelson and published by the
Norwegian-American Historical Association (NAHA) in 1955. The Volume is
still in print and available from NAHA at http://www.naha.stolaf.edu
where you will also find the first 33 volumes of Studies and Records
online as well as Theodore C. Blegen's 2 volumes on Norwegian Migration
to America. This chapter is published with the kind permission of NAHA.
The book this selection is drawn from is under copyright and permission
has been granted for educational purposes and it is not to be used in any
way for commercial purposes.
Wednesday, November 30. We have just finished our breakfast, and have had
a visit from a bergenser, Mr. Rein. {13} Preus is brushing his shoes with
all his might, and we are waiting for Schlytter. The weather is mild and
fine. Mrs. M. told me a great deal about American women. Many, even
though their husbands earn much more than Mølbach, still have no
servants, but do their own scrubbing and other work, and afterward clothe
themselves in velvet and silk and promenade up and down Broadway. They do
not see their husbands save for brief visits, as the latter seldom eat at
home. She knew some, she said, who spend a thousand dollars just for
clothes, and yet these ladies oftentimes scarcely have decent bedding or
table linen. V. and Schlytter, as usual, had business affairs that took
them out; I stayed home and reread letters. We had dinner and listened to
Madam Scot's [Schott's] Danish chatter about food and American fashions.
Immediately afterward Schlytter came with Westergaard to accompany us to
the well-known Greenwood Cemetery. {14}
We took an omnibus and got off at the entrance, in order to see
everything better. Whoever first conceived the idea of laying out a
cemetery there had good taste indeed. It covers a very large area. The
piece of land which was chosen for it is very pleasant-rolling, with
lovely lakes and beautiful trees. It seems strange to walk among the dead
all that distance; yet one could easily forget them, since, because of
the cemetery's great extent, the graves are scattered. One is aware only
of walking in a pretty park, until suddenly one is aroused to
consciousness by a group of white memorial markers or a monument that
gleams from the top of a grass-covered knol1. {15}
Mortuary vaults are very numerous. Interment is in a knoll with an
entrance like a chapel's; some, in Gothic style, were very pretty, while
others looked more like fireplaces than anything else. A few monuments
had a beautiful location down by a lake. We examined a number of
monuments in detail; one for a woman was especially fine. There was one
which was quite comical --- a captain, life-size, who stood looking
through an octant. The man is still living and now and then goes to gaze
at his epitaph. The prettiest one we saw was for a French woman who died
by falling from a horse. There were many charming monuments for children.
Here there is a strange custom of placing the child's playthings on the
grave. There were some glass cases with whole exhibits inside. We walked
about until dark and went home satisfied that we had done justice to that
beautiful cemetery.
By mistake we almost took separate omnibuses home. V., that coffee man,
is not himself when he does not get his coffee in the afternoon, as was
the case today. He decided that since he could not get coffee, he would
nevertheless have something, and took Schlytter with him. Westergaard and
I hurried into an omnibus with no one in it; it soon filled up, and when
the men came there was just one place for Schlytter, who took V. upon his
lap, and after much trouble and after having sung and talked nicely to
him, got the unruly child to sit still.
The driver cracked the whip, but we had gone only a few steps when the
omnibus stopped; something had gone wrong, and we waited patiently until
we heard the welcome "Go ahead!" The same thing happened once more before
we reached Brooklyn and went aboard the handsome ferry, as they call the
steamboats between New York and Brooklyn, which soon brought us to the
other side. There we boarded a streetcar, and found the same women who
had followed us all the way. They burst into gales of laughter over our
meeting again. We were at Hvoslef's again in the evening, where as usual
our hostess was gracious, regaling us with eggnog and other good things.
Thursday, December 1. We had just finished our breakfast when Mrs.
Mølbach paid us a visit, then Schlytter, who went out with V. and bought
a trunk. Mrs. Mølbach left a little later and we took a tour up Broadway.
It is amusing to go there at least once and look at the traffic and
activity, the splendid shops, and all the different faces. When we got
home we found Consul Bech, who had come to the city again to find us. He
urgently invited us to visit him Friday; we could then leave Saturday. As
we had decided definitely to depart Friday morning, we said no. But there
was no gainsaying him. He wished us welcome to his home when he left, and
we finally decided to go by way of Poughkeepsie.
Mrs. M. came again in the afternoon to take us to see an exceptionally
fine steamship. It is very large, and arranged comfortably and elegantly.
From there we went on board the "Rhein" to say good-by. It grieved me to
say farewell to our genial captain and his wife. Schlytter had dinner
with us in the evening. The Mølbachs came up to say good-by; we had not
run across them earlier. We packed, and went to bed late; and at nine
o'clock next morning we sat in the railway coach on the way to
Poughkeepsie, accompanied by Schlytter, who went a little way with us.
It is a beautiful route; we have the Hudson River on one side with its
lovely shore, which consists alternately of gray-white, wooded bluffs of
even height, cultivated fields, and small, neat villages. The roadbed
follows the water's edge. In some places the river cuts into the bank,
and the track is laid over the water.
At twelve-thirty we arrived at Poughkeepsie, and found a carriage waiting
to take us to Bech's. We were cordially received by Mrs. Bech; the consul
arrived a little later. We drank hot chocolate and admired the pretty
rooms, especially the conservatory. We had dinner; the evening passed in
a very lively discussion of religious affairs on the part of V., Mrs. B.,
and the consul. On Saturday the consul and V. were at the factory while
his wife, the children, and I went for a drive in and around the town.
The surroundings are very charming. A Danish gentleman came and remained
until
Sunday evening. Sunday we attended the Episcopal church. I like their
service very much except for their custom of half mumbling their prayers,
which are otherwise very beautiful. The sermon is the least part of the
service. Sunday passed quietly and peacefully. I went to bed early, as I
did not feel well.
Thursday, December 8. I am now sitting aboard a large elegant steamer on
the way from Chicago to Milwaukee. The weather is beautiful and calm, so
that I can continue quite at ease my description of the journey from
Poughkeepsie. Monday morning, the fifth, we took leave of our friendly
hostess and, accompanied by the consul, went to the station. The consul
wanted to go with us to Utica, but was unable to, and sent his servant
with us part of the way to see us safely to another train. We left at
ten-thirty. A short time afterward a gentleman approached and began to
talk to us about Mr. Bech and "help." We did not fully understand him,
and V. dismissed him rather shortly. We asked the servant who it was, and
learned that he was a friend of Bech's. The servant went over and spoke
to him, and so did V. When we came to Albany, where we changed trains, he
obtained seats for us. He himself sat behind us. We conversed as best we
could; he treated us to apples and nuts. He was a friendly, amiable man.
He left us in Utica, where we arrived at three o'clock.
The day was gloomy and a little snow fell. The landscape was most
charming during the first part of the journey through the Mohawk Valley
and over the Mohawk Canal; later the land became more level and
monotonous. At nine o'clock we arrived at Buffalo, having traveled about
four hundred English miles. We were rather tired and wanted to stay
overnight there; we escaped safely at last from the importunate cabmen
and arrived at a hotel; got a room with a brisk fire in the fireplace. A
little bustling person came bowing and scraping and said, "Supper is
ready"; so we went down and found, as usual in these hotels, many small
dishes, meat, good bread, but poor tea and coffee. At seven o'clock next
morning we walked in rain and mud to the station. It was not easy to find
a place in the crowded coaches. {16}
We traveled this day through Ohio; stopped longest in Cleveland. The
weather was beautiful later in the day. The land is rather uniformly
level, with many groves of leafy trees, some firs scattered here and
there, many orchards, small lakes, long stretches of woods and
uncultivated land where occasionally one spies a wretched little log
cabin, and sometimes a man in the woods with an ax on his shoulder. The
train stops are frequent. We passed through several places, among others
South Bend, where one could see the beginnings of buildings of
considerable size. At one station an excellent horse-drawn machine for
sawing wood caught our attention. In the afternoon we crossed into
northern Indiana, but there was no difference in the nature of the land.
At one of the changes of cars we got a disagreeable old woman behind us
who entertained and amused the rest of the company by relating her
travels and rattling on as if they were all ignoramuses.
At Cleveland we had considerable trouble finding the right train; when we
did, the coaches were so crowded we were lucky to get a seat, and could
hold it only by remaining in it; but we stopped so long that it was
vexing not to be able to go out to get a little food. We met Mr. Pauli
there; he told us that when we reached Toledo we would have to cross the
bay before we could get the other train. It was between nine and ten when
we arrived in Toledo. We followed the crowd and arrived, just as we had
expected, on board a steamboat, where we waited a long time without going
anywhere. When at last we reached the far shore, no train was to be seen;
we made inquiries and heard that it had gone. The next train was at three
o'clock in the morning. There was nothing we could do about it. We met a
gentleman who showed us to an omnibus which took us to a hotel where we
could wait. We went down to supper, and then spent the time in a room
with two women and some children who were to leave with us. I wrapped my
Shaw about me and lay down with my coat over me and slept quite
splendidly until the omnibus came to take us to the station.
The coaches were filled with an unpleasant mixed company, which one must
put up with here where there is only one class. Near the large cities it
is all right, but as we get farther west, the passengers are mainly farm
folk. The seats are so comfortable that I did not feel much fatigue. I
slept part of the time, as there was the same monotonous, fairly level
land. We stopped very often and waited several times for locomotives to
pass us. The coaches are always full of newsboys who offer apples and
cookies for sale; at intervals they are kind enough to go about with
water; they also sell books and magazines.
It became more level as we neared Chicago. Michigan looked yellow and
unattractive. Great deserted prairies with woods on the horizon --- in
which at times one caught a glimpse of a little cabin --- swampy or
covered with a growth of marsh grass. The prairie nearest Chicago was
more cultivated and settled; large orchards were planted there. Finally,
at four o'clock, we arrived in Chicago; that much of our journey was
safely past. We have seen almost no snow or ice on the whole trip, and
for the most part only leafy trees.
We took the omnibus to the Matteson Hotel and got a room. {17} V. went
down for our luggage; after many vain attempts I was at last lucky enough
to get a servant to make a fire. V. looked up Unonius, the pastor, who
came back with him and sat here awhile. {18} He was very friendly,
expressed his regrets that we had not come directly to him; but as we
were to leave early in the morning, we were unwilling to make any change.
He had been on the point of leaving for a party when V. came. When he had
gone, we went down to supper in a very large dining room. Everything in
this hotel looks very grand and costly. Who would believe that when
Pastor Unonius came here twelve years ago there was no trace of a city,
and he had to live in a wretched log cabin? Now it is a flourishing city
with shops just as fine as New York's, if not finer. Naturally one gets
the same impression here, as everywhere on our journey, that everything
is still in its beginnings. At eight o'clock this morning we boarded a
boat for Milwaukee, where we will arrive soon, I suppose, since it is now
half past three.
This is a remarkably fine steamer. The upper saloon, where we are ---
there are two decks --- is extremely large, lacquered white with richly
gilded borders and carvings, four large, handsome chandeliers, several
gilded mirrors. The floor is covered with expensive carpets, and there
are mahogany tables with marble tops, velvet-upholstered sofas and
chairs. Doors along the walls open into the cabins. The passengers,
however, are not at all suited to this elegance --- a mixed company here
as everywhere. A young woman sitting opposite is clothed in silk from top
to toe, with white kid gloves, and looks as though she were much taken
with herself and her finery. Her husband, on the other hand, does not
look very elegant. Beside her sits a woman with a number of children, who
is quite boldly taking down her hair. One sees all kinds of shoes, too,
some small, narrow, and polished as if made to tread upon silk and
velvet; others large, heavy, dirty, whose owners should be forbidden to
walk upon these lovely carpets.
About five o'clock we landed in Milwaukee. Since our train had already
left, we had to wait until eight o'clock the next morning. We hurried
from breakfast into a bus, and were taken first to the steamer, much to
our alarm; then by good fortune we got into the bus again and to the
train --- only one car. Beautiful weather. We arrived in Milton about
twelve o'clock. I went into the Milton House, sat down in a rocking
chair, and gazed at all the gimcracks in the room. {19} V. made an effort
to get a horse, but in vain. We discovered that the little white-haired
boy near the stove was Norwegian. We ate dinner in company with a very
mixed group. Preus left with the baggage. {20} Later we got a lumber
wagon and a most learned driver; expecting every moment to tip over, we
came at last safely to Koshkonong. {21} We surprised the [Adolph C.]
Preuses in the midst of butchering, but were welcomed very warmly. We
found it rather strange in that little house to begin with. Sunday was
pleasant; we took a drive. The parsonage is a fairly large log cabin with
whitewashed walls and unbelievably simple furniture; but it is cozy, and
the Preuses are unusually kind and friendly. {22}
Monday, the twelfth, I wrote home. Preus and V. were gone all day. In the
evening H. Preus came to take us to his home the following day. {23} We
left Koshkonong on the thirteenth at eleven o'clock.
<13> A bergenser is a native of Bergen, Norway.
<14> Rein and Westergaard, apparently acquaintances of the Korens in New
York city, are not listed in the city directory for that year and have
not been identified elsewhere.
<15> Greenwood cemetery, which is about a square mile in area, has its
main entrance at Fifth Avenue and Twenty-sixth Street in Brooklyn. It was
opened in 1850 and is considered one of the outstanding cemeteries of the
New York City area.
<16> The first railroad between Buffalo and Chicago had been completed in
the fall of 1853, according to Pastor Koren; Symra, 21 (1905). In the
paragraph that follows, Mrs. Koren gets a little ahead of her story by
discussing South Bend and Indiana before she has left Ohio.
<17> The Matteson House, a neat and plain red brick structure, four
stories high, was at the corner of Dearborn and Randolph streets. It
opened in the early fifties and was considered a first-class hotel. It
was destroyed in the great fire of 1871. See Guide to the City of Chicago
(Chicago, 1868); and J. S. Currey, Chicago: Its History and Its Builders
(Chicago, 1918).
<18> Gustaf Elias Marius Unonius (1810-1902) was a Swedish Lutheran
pastor who founded a Scandinavian settlement at Pine Lake, Wisconsin, in
1841. Subsequently he was ordained an Episcopal minister; he went to
Chicago in 1849 to work among Norwegians and Swedes there. He first met
the Korens in Hamburg in 1853; he gave them advice about Iowa, which he
had visited. See Blegen, American Transition, 123, 126, 128, 129; Fra
pioneertiden, 12.
<19> Milton is fifty-five miles southwest of Milwaukee. The Milton House
still stands and is today maintained as the museum and headquarters of
the Milton Historical Society. This building, reported to be the first
concrete structure in the United States, was built in 1844 by Joseph
Goodrich, who continued to operate it as a public inn until his death in
1867 Margaret Gleason, reference librarian, State Historical Society of
Wisconsin, to the editor, February 8, 1955.
<20> "This is no doubt the Jacob Preus whom the Korens had met on the
ship.
<21> Pastor Koren states that the driver was an American about twenty
years old, who apparently was a college student during the winter; Symra,
21 (1905). Koshkonong parsonage was fifteen miles north of Milton.
<22> The Reverend Adolph C. Preus (1814-78) migrated to America in 1850
and was pastor at Koshkonong until 1860; he was president of the
Norwegian Synod, 1853-62; in 1872 he returned to Norway.
<23> The Reverend Herman A. Preus (1825-94) migrated to America in 1851;
he was pastor at Spring Prairie, Wisconsin, about fifteen miles northeast
of Madison, 1851-94; and he was president of the Norwegian Synod, 1862-94
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